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After a writing spree in May earlier this year …
- Optimizing Logitech G27 (800+ views on a single day, thank you everyone!)
- Ultimate Guide to Building Your Own Race Simulator
- How to Simrace in Monaco (most hated article because I “joked” about iRacing’s Monaco race track being the best; that was plain stupid; sorry everyone!)
… I was plain lazy, captured in a world between online racing and forging my real life future.
Without further artificial and irrelevant ado, what better time if not now, to discuss the Best PlayStation 4 Steering Wheel? Hell yeah.
Regular readers know that I tend to ignore lower priced racing gear. For good reason: If you ever want to be chase aliens (like Greger Huttu), a subpar wheel/pedal combo is no serious option. This site is tagged “PerfectSimracer.com” for good reason! Therefore, only quality wheels will be reviewed.
Note on Fanatec
Note that you sometimes have to take special care when using Fanatec gear (just google “fanatec ps4”). However, simulations like Project Cars support this premium class wheel without too much hassle. In my opinion, the quality you get from the not-so-cheap Fanatec stuff is worth (almost) any effort.
Yet, because it is not officially supported, this review doesn’t cover it. For Fanatec reviews, look here:
UPDATED Note on Fanatec:
Several Weeks ago, Fanatec have finally released their PS4 bred Fanatec CSL Elite for PS4. See below for more info!
Note on Thrustmaster T500
This wheel is not natively supported on PS4. Notwithstanding, you can use it, with some small usability glitches. E.g., you need to use the Joypad (instead of the T500 buttons) to navigate in-game menus.
If you are interested in the Thrustmaster T500, look here for a detailed review.
Note on Logitech G29
Yes, the Logitech G29 received a lot of FLAK with regards to the pricing tag. However, it is regularly discounted at <$300 on Amazon.com, Amazon.de etc.; the same pricing range as its predecessor.
Some call it a marketing trick. I call it valuable.
What will be reviewed (tl;dr)
- Thrustmaster T80 (yes, I normally ditch the <$100 pricing class; this is the exception to the rule, as there are really not too many choices for PS4!)
- Thrustmaster T300
- Logitech G29
Ready. Set. Go.
Disclaimer: This article was initially released on the 5th of December 2016. It has since been updated and maintained frequently. Last Update: 28th of July, 2017.
Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel – Officially licensed for PS4
Quick Rating: As of our July 2017 update, the new Fanatec CSL Elite for PS4 is the clear winner of this bout.
Sure, the price tag may be out of scope if you are not used to top class racing hardware. But if you want to make sure to get the best raw material (a lot of metal if you go with the Club Sport V3 pedals, which are fully compatible), best and strongest force feedback, best and most realistic & adjustable brake pedal feeling, a degressive clutch and overally a highly customizable setup, this is the one true solution for PlayStation 4.
On top of being the best overall wheel in review, the Fanatec CSL Elite for PS4 is compatible to PC as is.
To lift things further: You can use this wheel on Xbox One, either by using an Xbox One compatible Fanatec Racing Wheel. Or by using Fanatec’s Universal Hub for Xbox One and then some wheel.
Force feedback is a little less strong than on the “normal” Fanatec CSL Elite Wheel Base; BUT it’s quicker. It’s so quick that I can barely believe what I am seeing upon starting the wheel, and then listening how silent this beast is, despite the quickness.
Personally, I never max out strength of force feedback, so given the choice between the original Fanatec CSL Wheel Base and the new Fanatec CSL for PS4 Wheel Base, I’d take the latter anytime. The euqation is easy: If two wheels have sufficient and high quality forcefeedback, use the quicker of them both.
(Warning: Personal opinion as a simracer and virtual truck driver) When I am on PS4 or XboxOne, there is no going back to other wheels currently on the market. On PC, the CSL Elite PS4 is only second to the ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5 or even more expensive hardware.
Bear in mind: The stuff is heavy, almost 10 kg (22 lbs) for the Base + Wheel. Another 8 kg (18 lbs) for Club Sport V3 pedals. So if you’re the kind of person who prefers soda streamers over beverage crates (hey, in Germany we have crates of 12×0.7 ltrs for water or soft drinks), you should be prepared for a small workout.
However, these masses totally add to the stability of your racing rig. Where with plastic devices, you fight against your table or racing simulator cockpit, with Fanatec, you fight (almost) just with the wheels. This is how it should be!
Features:
- Degrees of Rotation: 1080° (=1.5 full turns in each direction; when racing, I personally only use 110°, which is just 0.33 turns in each direction; I use 1080° only when delivering cargo in American Truck Simulator)
- Wheel Diameter: 30cm ≈ 12 in (real Formula 1 wheels are about 10 inches, road car wheels in the about 15 inches, so the Fanatec CSL PS4 steering wheel is a sportive compromise)
- Grip: Real leather and synthetic leather
- Shifter: Paddle Shifters with great feel for bite point.. If you want an H-Pattern shifter, that’s what you want to buy separately: Fanatec ClubSport Shifter SQ 1.5.
Pros:
- Wheel grip: Quite good; works really well for performance driving as well as one-handed or foot- or elbow-controlled truck driving. However, I found the Xbox One variant of the wheel more grippy (it employs rubber instead of leather)
- FFB: Ultra quick, and this is not just marketing blah by Fanatec, it’s ultra quick for real, and you can see it everytime the firmware boots up and self-configures the device with full turns in each direction, quicker than most eyes are capable of recognizing.
- Heavy: Almost 20 kg (44 in) in total. And yes, this is a plus. It gives your rig noticably more inertia.
Cons:
- Not quite cheap, but you totally get what you pay for: A metal monster with lighting fast force feedback, strong enough to give you proper muscle training.
- Uhm, the ClubSport pedals have red colored metals instead of playstation’ish blue ones. So if you are a hardcore blue person, consider not looking at the pedals while driving.
Console Compatibility:
- PlayStation 4 (for some older games, like Dirt Rally, you need to use the purple mode)
- PC
- XboxOne, provided you use a Fanatec XboxOne wheel or the Fanatec Universal Hub for Xbox One (the latter enables you to basically use all Fanatec wheels as well as a huge number of real wheels, like available from Momo).
There is a separate and more detailed review about this device here: Fanatec CSL Elite Review (PlayStation 4, PC, XboxOne(*))
Thrustmaster T80 – Cheap, but meh.
Quick Rating: Hmm, okay. Let’s say it’s the absolute minimum you should invest. My personal recommendation would be to save some more bucks. However, if you drift just a few laps once in while and see racing as more of a quick amusement, you may consider this wheel.
The Thrustmaster T80 steering wheel for PlayStation 4 (and compatibility to PS3 and PC) is an introductory class racing wheel. At less than $100, you get a 270 degrees of rotation with a nice wheel grip. There is no force feedback in this wheel. Instead, what Thrustmaster installed are “bungee cords” (not sure whether Thrustmaster’s just marketing or if there are real bungee cords). Everyone who has ever tried a Logitech G29 or even Fanatec ClubSport wheel (+ wheelbase) will agree that good and strong FFB is (or can be) a huge factor when it comes to immersion into the simulation.
Furthermore, good quality force feedback helps you in driving around the track consistently, so if performance driving is your target, lack of FFB might be a complete No-Go for you.
It suits you if you just do some fun laps every now and then, but be realistic: You get what you pay for.
Let me add a short anecdote: I started simracing on a simple PlayStation 2 controller, later on a PlayStation 1 (:D) Namco NeGCon controller. But it was with the Logitech G27 that I really became addicted to simulation racing. What absolutely hooked me for hours was its force feedback. Having never experienced FFB before, I had absolute trouble just holding a LeMans prototype straight on the Hunaudièrs straight at Le Mans. I was literally sweating, just for the physical effort of it.
Bear in mind: When you decide for the T80, you may not have that experience.
Features:
- Degrees of Rotation: 270°
- Wheel Diameter: 25cm / 10 inches (Formula 1 wheels are about 10 inches, the Fanatec ClubSport Classic wheel is about 13 inches.
- Grip: Rubber
- Shifter: Paddle Shifters. No separate shifter included.
Pros:
- Cheap, but you get what you pay for.
- Wheel grip is quite okay.
Cons:
- Cable from Wheelbase to Pedals too short. You won’t have much freedom with regards to wheel+pedal placement.
- Table Clamp not too stable. Expect the wheel to sometimes not hold up to a hot race.
- NO Force Feedback. Instead, just what Thrustmaster calls “Bungee Cords”. It feels nice as far as it goes, but no FFB is no FFB.
Console Compatibility:
- PlayStation 3 (calibrated as standard controller)
- PC (calibrated as standard controller)
- PlayStation 4 (natively)
Thrustmaster T300 – Not bad!
Quick Rating: Yes, it’s significantly more expensive than the T80. But if you love racing, this or the Logitech G29 should be your bare minimum. Regarding quality, I found the Thrustmaster T300 and Logitech G29 en par, with the T300 wheel having a slight edge on G29 if and only if you buy the brake mod (however: stock G29 is better than stock T300).
Before rushing to buy a T300, read on for a buyer’s guide below. Make sure you get the right set, because the packages are confusing.
Features:
- Degrees of Rotation: 1080°
- Removable Wheel
- Wheel Diameter: 28cm / 11 inches (real Formula 1 wheels are about 10 inches, the Fanatec ClubSport Classic wheel is about 13 inches)
- Grip: Rubber
- Shifter: Paddle Shifters. No separate shifter included.
Pros:
- Wheel grip is very good.
- Very responsive, strong and realistic Force Feedback.
- The pedal-plate leans nicely against the wall. It also works good enough without carpet; especially if you go for the T3PA-PRO pedals, you’ll be open to many pedal mounting options.
Cons:
- No Brake Mod included, there is no progressive feel in the brake pedal. Serious advice: Buy or make a brake mod to reveal your true brake mastery.
- The available packages are confusing (buyer’s guide below!).
Console Compatibility:
- PS3 (as standard controller)
- PC (as standard controller)
- PS 4 (natively)
Buyer’s Guide
There are several T300 packages that contain the cheap T80-style pedals, and the Alcantara package that has the T3PA-pedals. You can tell them from just counting the pedals: 2 pedals = cheap pedals, 3 pedals = the pedals you should get.
To increase confusion, there are also two variants of the T3PA pedals: Thrustmaster T3PA, and Thrustmaster T3PA Pro. The pro version has fewer plastic parts, looks more racy, and can be mounted upside down.
So, these are the most popular variants:
1. Thrustmaster T300 RS (with cheaper pedals)
2. Thrustmaster T300 Ferrari GTE (with cheaper pedals)
3. Thrustmaster T300 Integral Alcantara Ferrari Edition (with T3PA).
Of those packages, none includes the T3PA PRO with clutch-pedal. If you lean towards a clutch and a separate shifter, my advice would be to get one of the cheaper packages and then buy T3PA PRO separately. Or, for the better bang for the buck, buy the Alcantara package; but remember that the T3PA (without “PRO”) cannot be mounted upside down and use more plastic.
ProTip: In some countries, you can also buy the T300 Racing Wheel Servo separately. Here’s a quick buyer’s guide:
- T300 Racing Wheel Servo
- T3PA– or T3PA-Pro pedals
- one (or more, of course) of the following wheel add-on’s of your choice:
- Thrustmaster Ferrari 599XX EVO Wheel Add-On (Alcantara)
- Thrustmaster Ferrari GTE F458 Wheel Add-On
- Thrustmaster TM Leather 28 GT Wheel Add-On
- Thrustmaster Ferrari F1 Wheel Add-On (my favourite)
- Optional: Thrustmaster TH8A Add-On Gearbox Shifter
Phew. Confusing packages seem to be the norm in this quality class and higher (Fanatec is a little less confusing confusing).
Logitech Driving Force G29 Race Wheel – Best Intro Wheel
Quick Rating: If you are new to PS4 steering wheels or if you looking for just a complete, ready-to-go package, then the Logitech G29 is the way to go. Like the other wheels in this review, it does not include a gearbox shifter (unlike its predecessors G25 + G27). Apart from that, the table clamps are really good and typically stable enough. The device sports a clutch pedal. Furthermore, the brake pedal has a progressive feeling like a real car’s pedal.
Features:
- Degrees of Rotation: 900°
- Wheel Diameter: 27cm / 10.5 inches (real Formula 1 wheels are about 10 inches, the Fanatec ClubSport Classic wheel is about 13 inches)
- Grip: Unlike Thrustmaster, the G29 has a leather coating. Rubber is nice. Leather is awesome.
- Shifter: Paddle Shifters. No separate shifter included.
Pros:
- Leather Wheel grip.
- Very responsive, strong and realistic Force Feedback.
- Realistic / Progressive Brake.
- Nice carpet grip.
Cons:
- Paddle Shifter feels a little bit slushy. One gets used to it, but a more definitive feeling with a final click-feel would be neat.
- The Pedal Plate has a slightly round shape. What this means that it’s a bit more difficult to lean it against a wall. The alternative is to use a carpet, as the carpet grip is really nice. If you don’t have a fixed carpet, the best is to permanently mount it onto a cheap plate (it has proper screw threads), or even better, onto a rig.
Console Compatibility:
- PS3
- PS4
- PC
Summary and Final Ranking
The Podium:
By means of raw quality, all pricing aside (click links to see current prices on Fanatec and Amazon):
- Fanatec CSL Elite, officially licensed for PS4 + Club Sport Pedals, V3
- Thrustmaster T300 (but see further above to buy proper package)
- Logitech G29
My recommendation:
If you seek the best stuff available, go all Fanatec. Buy a CSL Elite for PS4 package and either CSL Elite Pedals + Load Cell Kit, or go wild and order Club Sport Pedals, V3 (review here) straight. This is a make-no-prisoners solution if you want the best available on PS4. To top this even more, this setup is completely compatible with PC, as well as XboxOne if you additionally buy an Xbox One Fanatec Wheel or the Fanatec Universal Hub for Xbox One.
Go for Logitech G29 if you prefer a complete package or are simply not a Thrustmaster guy. Go for Thrustmaster T300 if you want to invest the extra bucks and are not subject to analysis paralysis, and make sure to make or buy a progressive brake mod. The G29 does not need an additional brake mod, as it has a progressive brake builtin.
Sony’s PlayStation 4 is really not oversaturated with steering wheels and pedals. However, with Logitech’s G29 Driving Force and Thrustmaster’s T300, you already have very decent options. There is also the T80 (by Thrustmaster, too), but if you’re a serious racer looking to prove oneself, save the money for a G29 or T300.
Regarding the T300, the marketing and purchasing experience on Amazon or other retailers is really confusing. Come back anytime for the buyer’s guide.
Of course, the PS4 is only in the mid of it’s life, so bookmark this page and come back any time for updates.
Article History:
- originally published Oct 13, 2016
- updated Dec 5, 2016
- updated Jul 29, 2017
- fixed typos Aug 19, 2017
- fixed links Apr 16, 2019
- fixed links May 10, 2024
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where do you get a thrustmaster t80 with ffb? 2 of my friends bought that piece of crap wheel and it’s just bungee cords inside.
Hi Tim,
sorry for the late reply. TBH, I don’t know which condition I suffered when I wrote the section about the Thrustmaster T80. Indeed it has no force feedback, so “it’s a joke” is way too much of an understatement. I am fixing this.
Thanks for stopping by and bringing this to my attention,
Seb
Have either the G29 or T300 been tried/tested on the new PS4 Pro? All the compatibility just says PS3, PS4 but nowhere is PS4 Pro quoted.
Hi Gordon,
thanks for commenting!
Are there differences between the PS4 and the PS4 pro w.r.t. hardware compatibility?
Hi Sebastian, thanks for your response.
I haven’t seen any hardware compatibility differences with regards to PS4 and PS4 Pro other than the Pro has a faster graphics card and a faster CPU. I have purchased the PS4 Pro and want to buy a Thrustmaster T300RS GT Edition if I can find one in the UK. I hope it will work because it’s a lot of money to fork out if it doesn’t. I just hoped that someone who is reading this post has already tried this combination.
you forgot the T150 from Thrustmaster a entry level wheel for new gamers. that can be a nice option for for someone who is starting sim racing on Ps4 now that we see more and more people on ps4 sim racing.
Thanks for stopping by, David.
Indeed the T150 can be a good introductory wheel. It’s not always easy to decide on which wheels make it into the review. Being a user of the internets myself, I easily get overwhelmed if reviews list too many choices, especially when I am a beginner to something.
As a reader, I personally prefer reviews with up to 5 items. Anything more, and I suffer analysis paralysis 🙁
Personally i started over a year ago with a basic T150RS on Dirt Rally and Project Cars, over the time th e love for racing grow and the demand make me buy a T300RS and a T3PA Pro Pedals with a Shifter over the 500Rs because the 300rs runs so much smother and with the same power of the 500rs. Honestly between a 500Rs + Shifter over 450 bucks and a 300rs base f1 whell shift and T3PA Pro pedals just over 400 i recomend the 300RS
Aloha! Russ here from Maui. I have never done any computer games… not once! I do race cars and a buddy of mine recommended I check in with you. So if money is not a huge issue and I wanted the top of the line set up with stick shift vs. paddles what would you recommend? Thanks so much for putting this all together!
Aloha to Maui!
So, given that money is not an issue: Personally, I’d go with Fanatec-Hardware anytime, their ClubSport line, to be precise.
As an introductory, Fanatec CSL is awesome, too. I found it even better than the old ClubSport line, except for the Clutch Pedal.
So, more expensive option: Fanatec Club Sport.
Less expensive, still awesome: Fanatec CSL.
Best regards and thanks a lot for stopping by!
Awesome! Thank you so much!
Very welcome!
Hi Sebastian,
I want to first say thank you for your comprehensive guide of PS4 wheels which is really helpful. I am a car enthusiast who loves driving in real life and just decided to start my sim racing experience with the new Gran Turismo Sport. I found your blog when doing research online and you truly persuaded me to buy a set of Fanatec CSL Elite rather than Logitech G29 since I want to develop sim racing to be my next long term hobby. For now, I still have some questions and it would be much appreciated if you can answer them.
Hi Ian,
thanks a lot for stopping by. Comments like yours are what fuels this site 🙂
And, of course, welcome to the world of simulation racing. One note though: In the past, the Gran Turismo series was known to live in the continuum between racing games and racing simulations. It was neither a straight hardcore simulator like iRacing or Assetto Corsa, nor a arcade racer like the Need for Speed series.
However, I personally always loved Gran Turismo, and look forward curiously how Sport will be (you’re on a headstart to me there ;))
1. When looking at Fanatec US website, I noticed there is no CSL Elite for PS4 available. The only thing close to what you are saying is the “CSL Elite for PC & Xbox”, which is not the new CSL Elite for PS4, right?
2. If I want to purchase the Clubsport Pedals V3, do you think it is necessary to buy the Damper Kit or Brake Performance Kit?
3. Thrustmaster just came out with their new top-end product “T-GT” which is designed for GT sport. It will cost about 800 USD, the same with CSL Elite + Clubsport Pedals V3, do you think I should consider that one too? If I really want to save some money, both CSL Elite Wheel Advanced Pack (CSL base, Elite P1 wheel, CSL Pedal with LC) and Thrustmaster T500RS cost 600 USD, which one is better and why?
Just realized I have a lot of questions haha! Thank you in advance for your generous help.
Ian
1. The Fanatec website is not too user-friendly, that’s for sure.
The CSL Elite for PS4 is currently only available as a bundle, you need to go “Products -> Bundles” or “Products -> Racing Wheels”.
However: To be honest, I wasn’t aware of that. The CSL Elite PS4 does not seem to be available in the US at the moment; truly a bummer. Here’s some reasoning straight from the Fanatec blog (https://www.fanatec.com/forum/discussion/550/introducing-our-first-officially-licensed-racing-wheel-for-playstation-4-ps4/p1):
Given that the blog post dates back to May, there is a shimmer of hope it becomes available soon.
You could find it here, but I am not sure about compatibility and shipping: https://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/racing-wheels/csl-elite-racing-wheel-ps4.html (EU) or at https://www.fanatec.com/au-en/bundle/product/csl-elite-ps4-starter-kit-for-pc-and-ps4.html (Australia).
2. The damper kit and the brake performance kit are not necessary.
IMHO, the damper kit is a nice-to-have, a really nice one. It’s a bit like the stabilizers on recurve or compound bows in archery; hard to explain. The make the footwork smoother 🙂
However, when it comes to the brake performance kit, I’d definitely go for it. While the stock CSPv3 brake pedal can be made really, really stiff, the brake-perf-kit makes it even stiffer. How comes my opinion? Having tested the CSL Elite w/ Load Cell Kit, where brake pedal travel can be almost eliminated, I learned that this very reduction to (almost) strength-only input made my braking more consistent and easy.
Yes, I was able to make some podium finishes with the linear G27 brake, a brake modded T500RS brake, a stock CSPv2 Load Cell brake. But, the brake-perf-kit is really the next iteration of brake pedal awesomeness. It makes things even easier, giving you more time for practicing a track. You feel even more confident on your brake.
Schumacher, Senna, they were master on the brake pedal. And there’s a famous quote stating that winning is done on the brake, not the throttle (but can’t find it right now).
While I also like to propose you do one by another, just to learn about the differences of the braking systems, my general advice would be to maximize your brake pedal experience.
Here’s a gem of a thread: http://www.f1technical.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18453
Make sure to also look at the linked YouTube videos 🙂
3. Yes, you should also consider the T-GT as a possibility. But, unfortunately, I did not yet have my hands on one of those, so I don’t qualify for personal opinion 🙁
Personally, I would prefer the system with the more open upgrade path. Thrustmaster is an ecosystem in itself. Likewise is Fanatec, but it’s also more open. See for example the Universal Hub thing, which let’s you use real Sparco or OMP rims. Or the pedals alone: Buy a cheap set of CSL Elite. Later, add the Load Cell Kit. Then, ditch it and grab ClubSport pedals, V3. Then, add a brake-perf-kit and possibly dampers. And then, when you’re rich, buy the inverted CSPv3. And all the time, you kept your wheel base (but of course switch from 50s Formula 1 rim to NASCAResque rim, then back to modern Formula rim). Just an example.
Furthermore, just from the pictures, the pedals of the Thrustmaster T-GT do not look toooooo trustable to me. And looking at the Amazon.com page for that wheel, I find:
A mod? No load cell?
So, while writing the lines of this reply to you, I just pinched my opinion to trending to: Prefer Load Cells. Prefer Fanatec.
But, as said, I have not tested it myself. Just from online research, given the budget at hand, I would aim for Fanatec.
And now, I think, this was one of longest replies I have ever written. Almost 800 words; for some bloggers, that’s worth one or two blog posts 😀
Thanks for that opportunity, and I hope I could help you just a little bit!
Hah, speaking of the devil: https://perfectsimracer.com/fanatec-announcement-csl-elite-ps4-pc-now-available-usa-canada/
Hi I currently have a Logitech g29 mounted to my gt omega sim rig and I am thinking of purchasing the fanatic csl elite wheel and pedal bundle for the ps4 pro now my question is will I notice more realistic force feedback with the fanatic wheel ? is the fanatic a far better wheel than the g29 will I notice much difference? I tend to turn down the ffb in games as I find you get slower lap times if you are fighting and wrestling with the wheel so is it worth up grading to the fanatic csl elite ??? thankyoufor your time you may email me at (mail-removed) thanks
In my personal opinion: Yes, yes and yes.
The CSL Elite for PS4 feels more robust and heavy and the Force Feedback is among the fastest and “precise” I know. By “precise” I mean that on track, I hardly actually think about it. I just drive and it only barely comes to mind. My steering wheel reactions and anticipation seems just correct.
Also, compared to Logitech wheels, the CSL Elite PS4 is pretty silent.
And if you want to ever upgrade the pedals to Club Sports, the CSL Elite is your entry to that.
Got into sim racing not long ago, been using standard ps4pro six axis controller to race. Noticed my lap times were 10secs a lap slower so asked what others were doing to get so quick and they all said which wheel set-up you using…I replied just joypad. Long story short, I want a wheel but don’t have unlimited cash, 2-300gbp is budget and was advised to look at logitech g29 or if feeling flush t300. After bit of research I’ve concluded logitech g29 package is probably best for me as an introductory wheel. That said, I don’t wanna get left behind cos I’m using poor equipment…any and all advice would be welcome mate.
Hey Peter,
thanks for stopping by.
In the pricing range you mention, I would personally target Logitech G29, too. As a more expensive upgrade, the CSL Elite line would be my choice.
By the way, I started simracing on a joypad, too 😀 I started with a PS2 joypad, and after that I “downgraded” to my old NeGcon-joypad, a PlayStation 1 controller that was published by Namco together with Ridge Racer. A great device 😀 Of course, laptimes never were en par with steering wheel + pedals lap times.